Schiffli machines are the massive, 15-yard-long behemoths that produce lace, eyelet, and bridal fabric. They use a continuous thread and a pantograph to move hundreds of needles at once. Schiffli lace has a distinct "hand" (feel)—it is soft, drapey, and has a tactile roughness on the back.
If you ever see one for sale at an auction, do not buy it unless you have an electrical engineering degree and a tolerance for pain. But if you find a digitizer who learned on a Punchant—hire them immediately. They speak a forgotten dialect of thread tension and pull compensation that no YouTube tutorial can teach.
Modern software is parametric. You draw a shape, select a fill, and the software calculates the stitches using Bezier math and raster algorithms. It’s safe. It’s clean. It is also sterile.
Modern multi-head embroidery is stiff. We use heavy backing, sharp needles, and high tension to force the thread into a stable substrate. Barudan Punchant
The Punchant worked via direct vector interpolation . You physically traced the edge of your design with a puck, and the machine interpreted the pressure, speed, and angle of your hand. This introduced micro-variance . In chemical lace, where you dissolve the backing and only the thread remains, those micro-variances are what prevent the fabric from curling into a plastic cup. The Punchant created "breathing room" in the stitch density that algorithms cannot replicate. To understand the Punchant, you have to understand Schiffli embroidery .
The Punchant is dead. Long live the Punchant. Do you have a Punchant story or a specific question about converting .PUN files to modern .DST? Drop a comment below or reach out—I’m still hunting for a working puck.
If you spend enough time in the back hallways of industrial embroidery—away from the roar of 15-head Tajimas and the clickbait of “auto-punch” software—you will eventually hear a name whispered with a mix of reverence and frustration: If you ever see one for sale at
I recently visited a factory in Como, Italy. They still run three Punchants. They use them exclusively for "antiquing"—converting modern vector art into files that mimic 1920s hand-run Schiffli. They output the .PUN files to a modern Barudan, then chemically burn away the backing. The result is indistinguishable from lace woven in 1955. The Barudan Punchant is a reminder that digitizing is not graphic design. It is choreography. It is physics.
Because when it comes to , modern software still hasn’t caught up. The Mythology of "Hardware Digitizing" Let’s rewind. Before Wilcom, before Pulse, before Hatch, digitizing was a physical act. You had a digitizing tablet (a magnetic grid), a four-button puck, and a computer that did nothing but manage stitches.
The Ghost in the Machine: Unpacking the Genius of the Barudan Punchant Modern software is parametric
Why a 30-year-old Japanese machine remains the holy grail for high-end lace and Schiffli digitizing.
Barudan didn't just make a digitizer; they made the Punchant. It was designed specifically for Barudan multi-head machines, but the format (Barudan .DAT or .PUN) became a lingua franca for high-end lace.